First Capital 19 Feb

First Capital

Starting in Bangkok, the current capital of Thailand, we have gone on to visit the other capitals in reverse order. We just came by bus (6 hours) from Ayuthaya, the second capital. Now we are in Sukhothai, considered by most to be the first capital of Thailand. Sukhothai operated as the capital from around 1250 until about 1350 when Ayuthaya wrested control of the country from this city.
The ruins of the ancient capital are a 30 minute bus ride from town. At the bus stop, we were able to rent bicycles to ride from ruin to ruin in the old city. It’s a great way to get around and Tim loves it.
We liked these ruins and current Wats in Sukhothai much better than those we toured in Ayuthaya. Most of the Wats are in the older Khmer style.
Our first stop was Wat Sri Chum. This is a massive sitting Buddha. This was a special stop since we have a photo of this Buddha in our living room at home, but we had never been here. It’s an amazing Buddha in a building without a roof. The building is slightly larger than the Buddha, but not by much. To give perspective on the size of the Buddha, Karen, Tim and I could easily sit in one hand of the statue. Next to this building is the ruins of another small temple with a sitting Buddha in it. Much smaller, but still impressive.
Our next stop is Wat Phra Phai Luang. This Wat has definite connections to Angkor Wat and the style of buildings in the Khmer temples. Looking at the ruins, it is clear that many things were added over time to this Wat and some modifications were made as well. In reading about the various ruins in the city, it is pointed out that a number of these started off as Hindu temples that were later converted to Buddhist temples. Prior to Sukhothai being the capital of Thailand, it was a Khmer outpost with a few small Wats for the residents.
We stop at a number of sights on our way to Wat Mahatat (the crown jewel of these temples). One of our stops is a chedi (pagoda shape) supported by the front halves of elephants all the way around the base of the chedi. Others were various Wats all with a slightly different twist.
Wat Mahatat is the biggest and most amazing complex in Sukhothai. It has a large multilevel chedi in the middle with two standing Buddhas on either side of it. Off to the side of the chedi and Buddha is the ruins of another temple that housed another seated Buddha. It is wonderful. On the way out of this complex, Tim spotted a four foot snake in the grass. We managed to make it to the exit of the Wat about the same time as the snake. It slithered up and over the wall as we took the more conventional exit.
A few more Wats and we wrapped up a great day of biking and sightseeing.
~Jeff~